Roxbury, 1846.
My dear little Grandson:-
The ship Astica being destined for theEast Indies with the cargo of wine that we took in at Teneriffe and some other articles; and having an invitation from Capt. Stanwood to go with him, and the voyage being a good one for a young sailor seeking promotion, I accepted his invitation. The ship was to be dispatched immediately, so you see I had but little time to stay on shore, and this I improved visiting my friends and making the necessary preparations for a long voyage. At length the day arrived on which I was again to take my departure; it was in the month of August. My oldest sister, (Amelia, married during my absence on my last voyage) now occupied the mansion house of my grandfather, he having retired to a small farm about three miles from the town. During my short stay on shore, I resided with my sister and from thence I was to take my departure. My sister Frances was at the time, staying with Amelia, so we were all together and I was again to be separated from all my heart held dear. Amelia's health was delicate. I had forebodings that I should never see her more. My heart was so full, good bye I could not give utterance to. I tore myself away in silence. My dear sister Amelia I never saw more; yet while I am now writing a whispering angel tells me we meet again, yes, I shall again behold that dear angelic face, it must, it will be so.
My journey to Boston was at this time a melancholy one. It was late in the afternoon before we arrived. I took lodgings that night at good old Martin Prentiss' and the following morning joined the ship, signed the articles, got on board my chest and bedding and went to work with a good will and a firm resolve to do my duty like a man to the end of the voyage.
Our ship's company, 48 near as I can recollect, was Solomon Stanwood, master, Nathaniel Hawthorne, mate, Hliphalet Davis, 2nd mate, Isaac Stockbridge, boatswain. Our carpenter was a Scotchman, his name I have forgotten, Benjamin Silver, steward, crew Harry Comerford, Francis Deblois, Jack Billington, Samuel Moore, Walter Mathews, William Stewart, - Fagg, - Jones, Jack Wallice, Jack Davis, a Prussian, a Finlader, their names not recollected, a black fellow for cook, name not remembered. The supercargo for the ship was Jacob Slade.
The ship being ready for sea, she was dropt into the stream, all hands mustered on board and orders given for no one to leave the ship without special permission from the owner. We were now waiting a fair wind; this required all our patience. To be denied the privilege of going on shore when we were about sailing on so long a voyage was peculiarly hard.
We had been now waiting several days for a fair wind; it was Sunday, the boat was ordered on shore for the captain; one of the hands that went in the boat was Frank Deblois, a cousin of Mr. Amory, the owner of the ship. He managed to get an interview with the owner and obtained from him a written order for the captain to permit him and myself to pass the day on shore. I felt truly grateful for this indulgence and much obliged to my friend - Frank, for his kindness in obtaining it for me. We drest [sic] ourselves in our best clothes and went on shore. I attended church at the Stone Chapel with Frank and took tea with him at his Uncle's, and in the evening returned on board satisfied with having passed one more pleasant Sabbath before sailing on our long voyage.
The Monday morning following was bright and clear with a fine breeze from the Northwest. The pilot came on board and we made the necessary preparation for getting the ship under way, the boat was sent on shore for the captain, and returned with him, the owner and a number of gentlemen that he had invited to go down as far as the light-house in the ship and return in the pilot boat. We now got under way, set all sail and glided down the harbour in handsome style - streamers waving in the wind", Mr, Amory had provided quite an entertainment for the friends he had invited, and they had a very jovial time. Three of the gentlemen that went down the harbour with us were my cousins. They did not all three of them, however, see fit to recognize me, poor sailor boy as I was. One of them did, however, and gave me a hearty shake of the hand, a good word, and a cheerful god speed that I never forgot. Did those that are placed above us know how much good a few kind words have the power of doing, I am sure they never would omit bestowing them, especially when demanded by the ties or consanguinity. The wind becoming light, and the tide having turned against us, it was quite dark before we got down to the light-house. Those were not the days of rigid temperance, the bottle had circulated pretty freely, our invited guests were all highly elated; the pilot boat came alongside, and took them all on board. They gave us three hearty cheers, for which gave them a hearty return, squared away the main yard and proceeded on our course.-- The wine and brandy had flowed so freely through that day that among our crew there were but few really sober ones. In the watch I belonged to, there was not one except myself able to take the helm that night. At this time there was a French man of war called the Bercean, lying in Boston harbour; this was a ship that had been captured by the United States ship Boston, and given up to the French under treaty. A British sloop of war, called the Pheasant, was cruising in Boston Bay for the purpose of capturing her when she sailed, which she was about doing at this time. About 12 o'clock at night we fell in with the Pheasant; they were particular in their inquiries about the French man of war. The French ship, a short time afterwards, was taken out by one of our energetic pilots on a dark, stormy night and escaped through the vineyard sound. We ran through the night with a moderate breeze and the day following were out sight of land and on our way to the Isle of France, with all sails set. Our passage was a pleasant one, and I do not remember any event of special interest that transpired from the time we left Boston light until we arrived on the Isle of France. We were about three months on our passage. Then we discharged most of our cargo, took on board part of a cargo of bar iron, and sailed for Batavia. ‘The Isle of France is a remarkably pleasant place, the climate is good, the water excellent, the people hospitable. At this time the Island was under the government of France. The English now have possession of it. The town and harbour is called Port Louis; it is strongly fortified. The Isle of France lies in Long. 57° 28' E1., and Latitude 20° 10' South. Tropical fruits of all kinds are here found in abundance, and many kinds of vegetables. Pigs, fowls, sheep, etc., etc., are to be obtained here in great plenty and every other necessary of life. We arrived safe in Batavia after a pleasant, but not remarkably short passage.
Batavia is a city and seaport in the Island of Java, the capital of that Island, and of all the Dutch settlements in the East Indies. It is situated on the river Jacatia amidst swamps and stagnant pools, which, with the fogs and climate render the air unwholesome to Europeans. The city is well built, and has a pleasant appearance.
Our Captain and supercargo went on shore, entered the ship at the custom house, and made the necessary arrangements for landing the cargo. Four folays were hired to man the boat; this our Captain did to save our own men from the scorching rays of the sun which they would otherwise have been exposed to in passing so often from the ship to the shore and from thence back to the ship. Our Captain and supercargo lived at a splendid hotel in the city, kept a carriage and two horses to take them wherever they wanted to go and in this manner avoided being exposed to the sun, which in this climate is so dangerous. It was the custom at that time for every master of a ship to have a coach to wait upon him. We now commenced discharging our cargo into lighters; a man was obliged to go in each lighter to take care of the property, a duty we should have been extremely glad to have avoided, as it frequently happened that we were compelled to stay all night on board the lighter in the river, or on the canal, where the exposure to sickness was very great, indeed. I was several times called to perform this duty and on each occasion felt like a doomed man. Kind providence protected us; not one of us suffered from sickness. From other ships lying near us some one was daily carried to their last resting place.
Our cargo being all landed and the ship put in order, we commenced taking on board our return cargo, consisting of sugar, coffee and pepper. Our cargo being all on hoard, the ship was made ready for sea. The Captain came on board quite ill with the chills and fever; the supercargo likewise came on board; the ship was got under way, and we sailed for home, to touch at the Isle of France on the way. The wind being light, it was several days before we lost sight of the Island of Java. Soon after getting to sea a number of our crew were taken ill with fevers. They were well attended to and all recovered, but our Captain's illness still continued. After our cosy, pleasant passage we arrived safe at the Isle of France, here our supercargo left us. Our Captain went on shore, took medical advice, and remained on shore several days to get recruited. At length our Captain returned on board in much better health than when we landed, but not quite well. We got under way and sailed for home. I cannot remember anything out of the common routine of ship's duty that took place during our passage home worth relating. I came very near "losing the number of my mess" as the sailors say on one occasion. We were running one day with all sail out, the ship rolling quite heavily, when an order was given to clew down the main-top-gallant-sail, haul out the earings and rebind the sail. This means to tie the sail snug on to the yard. I went aloft for this purpose, with another man. I took my station on the end of the yard, the other man was next to me, and nearly out to the end of the yard. We were on the weather yard arm; the ship was running with the wind about two points abaft the beam. While we were in this position the top-gallant-lift parted and both of us fell from the yard. As kind providence would have it, I saved myself by catching hold of the main top sail brace, and the other man caught hold of the main top mast shrouds; a very narrow escape for both of us. We got a new top-gallant-lift and finished the work we had undertaken to do. This little affair is hardly worth mentioning. It goes, however, to show how slender a thread a sailor's life hangs upon. One pleasant morning in the month of August, 1802, the joyful sound of "Land ho" was proclaimed from the fore top-gallant-yard. This proved to be the high land of Cape Cod. We were running in with a pleasant whole sail breeze and about 2 o'clock the same afternoon came to anchor in Nantasket Roads. Our Captain received a letter from the owner by the Pilot, ordering him to stop the ship in the Roads and come to town himself as soon as practicable, as he desired sending the ship to Europe without discharging the cargo. Immediately after the ship was brought to anchor, the boat was manned, ready to take the Captain to town. I went as one of the boat's crew. We landed the Captain at Long Wharf and he gave us permission to go and see our friends before we returned to the ship, so I made my way as fast as my legs would carry me to Martin Prentiss. Then I knew I could hear from my friends at home. The result of my inquiries was[a], that my friends were all well, that my sister Frances was then in town on a visit to Mrs. Locke in Atkinson Street. On receiving this intelligence, I went immediately to see her. On approaching the house I saw her sitting at the window clothed in deep mourning. seeing me, she ran immediately towards me and we rushed into each other arms. Her heart was too full of grief for the sad tidings she had to tell me, to admit of her uttering a word of joy for my return. Our dear, our much loved Amelia was no more among the living of the earth; she had gone some months before, to fill a higher and a better station than was allotted her in this region. I was greatly shocked by the sad intelligence, as but a few moments before, I had been told by one that I supposed knew, that my friends were all well. I now returned on board the ship with a heart more sad than it had ever been before; my feelings can be better imagined than described. Having lost my parents in my infancy, my sisters were more than doubly dear to me; in truth, they appeared to me the only friends I had; and then they were so good, so kind and loved me so tenderly, how could I bear pert with either one or the other of them; and yet, this great affliction I was now called upon to bear with manly fortitude, and after the first indulgence of grief, I did so bear my irreparable loss. Dear sainted soul; she was taken away from much sorrow to a blissful immortality. Many years, paths and days have past since I suffered this sad bereavement, and the time is fast approaching when I trust in God, we shall meet again, never more to part.--- The next day after our arrival all hands were discharged and paid off. I had now obtained a good stock of experience, and some money with which I was now ready to return home. I called again to to see my sister Frances. After mingling her sorrows with mine, she concluded to accompany me to Gloucester, so on the following day we took the stage, and after a melancholy ride we arrived, where? Home? No, there was now no home, the old mansion house was deserted, and everything appeared dull and cheerless. My sister Frances took up her abode at our Uncle's for a short time. She was Kindly received and hospitably treated. I found a lodging place in the old mansion where I slept alone, there being no other person in the house, and lived for a while as chance directed. Te next day I visited my Grandfather at his farm. He was very glad to see me. I staid [sic] a few days with him, but the place had no charms for me, and I could not make myself contented there. I was without employment, and the time past [sic] heavily. I had determined not to go to sea again as a common sailor if I could possibly avoid it. About this time, Captain Henry Parsons was in Gloucester looking for a second mate to g0 to Calcutta, in a ship belonging to the rich Mr. Bartlett of Newburyport, and he gave me an invitation to go with him, which I accepted, and to make sure of the berth, I took a horse immediately and set off for Newburyport. On my arrival there, I called on Mr. Bartlett, but I was too late, he had that very day engaged a man to fill the station; as he had authorized Captain Parsons to engage a second officer and he had engaged me, I thought the best as could have done would have been to offer to pay my expenses, but this he did not offer to do, so I was compelled to put up with the disappointment and pay my own expenses. However, I had a good ride, stopped as I passed through Ipswich and saw my good Uncle and Aunt Wade,| and my good cousins Mary Wade, Nath'l Wade, and William Foster Wade. I love to write their names, with them are associated many of the happy moments of my life.
I returned to Gloucester, there to wait a while longer; it was not a great while, however, before an eligible situation presented - Eben Parsons, Esq., of Boston, was at this time fitting out in connection with his son, Gorham Parsons, Esq., two Brigs for Muscat in Arabia. One of these Brigs - was the Joseph, Capt. George Lee, the other was the Greyhound commanded by Isaac Elwell of Gloucester. Capt. Elwell invited me to go his second mate. I consented to go, made the necessary arrangements, took french leave of my friends, and joined the Brig in Boston. I was now an officer, resolved to support with becoming dignity the character of an officer. As there was no chief mate yet attached to the Brig, the whole duty devolved upon me. I felt myself quite at home and carried on the work like an old veteran, and commanded as much respect, although at this time, I was only eighteen years of age. The Greyhound was a small Brig, about 150 tons, mounting eight carriage guns, and furnished with small arms, pistols, boarding pikes, etc., etc., to protect us from the attacks of Pirates that infest the Arabian Coast. The Joseph had a similar mounting, and was of about the same tonage as the Greyhound. We were without a chief mate until quite ready for sea, one had been appointed, and was one or two days on board. He was discharged for incompetency, there appeared now a pretty good chance for my being promoted to the station myself. I was thought too young, however, and an older man was found to take the berth. This man proved to be a miserable, intemperate fellow, and gave the captain much trouble; he could not well turn him ashore in the deserts of Arabia, humananity forbade it, consequently, he kept him the voyage round. We were now ready for sea, all hands on board. Our ship's company were Isaac Elwell, Captain, Thos. Goodhue, first mate, Epes Sargent, second mate; our Sseamen were Thos. Winslow, Blias Elwell, Thos. Guy, Philemon Dumphey, Samuel Fuller, James Brigham, a boy by the name of Bradford, and a black fellow for cook, his name not recollected.
We had a plentiful stock of good provisions for the voyage, a first-rate captain, and a good crew. The Greyhound was a small, sharp vessel, well calculated for smooth water, but a bad sea boat in a heavy sea, and at this time, since the great improvements in ship building, would hardly be thought safe to perform the voyage we were commencing upon.
In the month of ------ 1802 we sailed from Boston in company with the Brig Joseph, George lee, master, pound for Muscat in Arabia. The Joseph soon got ahead of us, and before night was a long distance ahead of us. We lost sight of her that night, and did not see her again until we arrived in Muscat. We had a good run off the coast, a pleasant passage to the Cape of Good Hope, a favorable time going round the Cape and a good passage from thence to the Islands of Bourbon. After passing the Island of Bourbon, we changed our course for Muscat, where we arrived in safety after a passage of about ninety days. There we found the Brig Joseph; she had not beaten us so much in her passage, as we thought she would from the superior sailing. She only arrived thirty-six hours before us. In running along the barren, desolate shores of Arabia, we past a nmber of suspicious looking craft called "mows" having quite a piratical appearance, consequently we kept ourselves prepared for action, guns loaded, boarding pikes ready, boarding nettings up, etc., etc. Our warlike appearance kept them at a respectful distance. The port of Muscat lies upon a cove that forms quite a good harbour; it is in Arabia, Felix capital of Omar. We hauled our Brig into the cove and moved her head and stern. The latituae of Muscat 23°- 30' North, Long. 60°- 2' East.
The object of our voyage was to procure a cargo of Mocha Coffee and such other articles as were to be found procurable, at prices that promised to yield a profit. Our captain went on shore, had an interview with the authorities of the place, was quite hospitably treated, and invited with Captain Lee of the Joseph, to visit the sultan on the following day. They accepted the invitation, and went, were very kindly received, and hospitably treated. They were regaled with various kinds of sweet-meats, coffee, etc., etc., and after their repast, furnished with a bowl of rose water to wash in. Through the aid of an old Banyan named “Ham Tham" our captain succeeded in purchasing a cargo, principally of Mocha Coffee, some elephants teeth, Gum Copal, Gum Arabic, Aloes, Tumeric, Senna and nut-galls. Captain Lee not peing able to procure a cargo for the Joseph proceeded up the Persian Gulf to Bassara. While lying here, putting our vessel in order, a melancholy accident happened that deprived us of one of our best seamen. The only American vessels in Muscat at this time were the ship Alexander Hamilton, Capt. Grable, belonging to Baltimore, the Brig Joseph, and our brig, the Greyhound. All three were lying moored nearly abreast of each other, and but a very short distance apart, our brig between the two; the ship on the starboard (or right hand) side, and the Joseph on the larboard (or left hand) side. A number of merchant ships belonging to the Sultan made their appearance, coming into port; they were said to be from Mocha. Out of respect, it was thought advisable to give them a salute, and display our colours; for this purpose the necessary arrangements were made, our guns were loaded, with particular orders from the Captain not to put wads in the guns, but to load with a cartridge only. His orders were obeyed, and all things made ready. The position the three vessels were paying in rendered it very dangerous to have anything except powder in the guns, as we were within the range of each other, or nearly so. The time now arrived when the firing was to commence. I was standing upon the forecastle, our captain who was ever watchful, observed, I see they are putting wads into their guns on board the ship, come aft, every one, and keep out of the range of their fire. I went aft, they began to fire on board the ship. On the discharge of the first gun from the ship,s forecastle, a man fell from the end of our flying jib-boom. The ship finished firing her salute, our firing was given up. We had lost a man through unpardonable carelessness, and we now could think of nothing but our loss. What was to be done? The depth of water where this poor fellow was lying was seven fathoms; just at this time an Arab was passing upon a "Catemeran", tnese fellows are all expert divers; we soon made a bargain with him to go down and look for our man. He took the end of a small line and went down, made the line fast to him, and we hauled him up, a shocking sight to behold, nearly one half of his head was gone.
The name of the man we lost by this fatal accident was Philemon Dumphey; belonged to Cape Ann, and left a widow and several children, in very poor circumstances. He was a first-rate seaman, and the most useful man we had on board; he was a good carpenter and caulker, as well as an energetic sailor. He had a presentiment that he should never see home again, circumstance that he frequently spoke of, yet he was always cheerful and attentive to his duty. The day before his death was Sunday; he was ashore on liberty. On his return in the evening, he remarked playfully, that he had met with a rich old uncle on shore, had been treated very kindly by him, and invited to come on shore and make him a visit - poor fellow, he little thought how long a visit he was destined to make on shore. He was now dead, and the last sad office was to be performed; a resting place was ‘provided for him on shore, a short distance from the town, a coffin made on board, of such materials as were at hand, and the exigency demanded. All things being ready, the coffin containing the mortal remains of our departed shipmate was placed in the boat covered with the American Ensign, the boats of the ship Alexander Hamilton and brig Joseph joined the procession. This was a solemn, impressive sight, with a long, slow, stroke of the oars they moved upon their destined way. It being my duty to stay on poard, to take care of the vessels, I kept my eye upon the boats from the time they left the Brig until they landed upon the Arabian shore - "And now their heavy task was done, and the moment arrived for returning" - I watched them on their way back; our boats came alongside the prig, and the others to their respective vessels.- Our colours, which during the day, had been at half-mast, were now hoisted up; and it being no part of a seaman's duty to give way to sorrow, we cheerfully resigned our departed friend, to the great disposer of events, with the consoling belief that althoug his body was under hatches, his soul had gone aloft".
The loss of this poor fellow's life being considered by our Captain as an act of carelessness, on the part of the captain of the Alexander Hamilton, and the family of the deceased being poor, and now deprived of their only source of support, came to the conclusion that there was a propriety in his representing this matter to the captain of the Alexander Hamilton, hoping by this means to awaken in his bosom a sentiment of generosity, that, would induce him to send some pecuniary aid, to the poor creatures that had been made sufferers, by his carelessness. He accordingly waited upon the captain, and laid the matter before him in its true light, and begged him to do something for the widow and fatherless, as a small reparation for the injury done them. All this alas! availed nothing - nothing was given by the captain of the Alexander Hamilton at this time, or at any time, that I ever heard of. The precise manner in which the fatal accident happened was this:
The wads, used on this occasion, were those that were made for use in battle, and ought not to have been used for any other purpose, especally in port. These wads are usually made of short pieces of hard tarred rope, seized together with spun yarn, of such was the wad that took the life of poor Phil. We had a part of the wad on board afterwards; it struck the flying jib boom, took a large piece out of it, glanced upwards, struck the poor fellow 's shoulder and glanced from thence to his head, taking nearly half of it off; from thence it passed to the brig Joseph's forestay, where it hung by the spun yarn that bound it together, and was taken from thence, and prought on board our vessel. It was only one piece of the wad, being a hard piece of old tarred lanyard stuff, about eight inches long and three inches round. At the time the fatal gun was fired, the deceased was on the flying jib boom, nearly out at the end, tarring the guys. He jocosely remarked a moment before “now we are going to have an engagement", - the words were scarcely given utterance to, before he fell into the water, as before related. A few days after this sad affair took place, the brig Joseph sailed for the Persian Gulf; and we began to take in cargo. The weather was insufferably hot, especially at night, when the breeze came from off the land, or I might have said, from off the desert sands of Arabia. Facing the breeze was like standing at the mouth of a large hot oven. - The Arabs are broad shouldered, strong build, tall, mscular and lean. I had an opportunity of witnessing their great strength while taking in our cargo. Our bales of Mocha Coffee weighing over 400 pounds each, were brought to the lighter from a distance, upon their shoulders; a bale of coffee was put upon the shoulders of one Arab, and carried by him a certain distance, and then shifted on to the shoulders of another, and so passed along until they reached the lighter, where it was deposited. Four hundred pounds upon the shoulders, is a very heavy burden for a man to bear. We were not many days taking in our cargo; it was all weighed on board by the Banyan acting for both parties, buyer and seller, and to the satisfaction of both, I presume, at any rate, the weight he made, I know was satisfactory to our Captain. This old Banyan named “Ham Tham" was a real prince of a fellow; he made our Captain a number of very handsone presents. To the chief mate and myself he made presents of sweetmeats, nuts, dates, several large flasks of rose waters, etc., etc., to the sailors likewise he made presents of fruits and sweetmeats. One of his presents to our Captain was a beautiful antelope, accidentally his legs got injured and it being a very delicate animal, we could not save him. He died soon after we left Muscat. The cargo being all on board, the necessary fresh stock, etc., provided, we dropped out of the cove and made sail, the winds at this season were from the south west, with dull hazy weather, we were consequently close haul wpon a wind, and obliged to make our course between the Maldine and Laccadine Islands, commonly called the nine degree channel along the coasts of Malabar and Coromandel, until we took the southeast trade wind, when we shaped our course for the Islé of France, where we intended to stop for supplies that could not be procured at Muscat, and for a man to replace the one we had lost. While run ing for the nine degree channel one night, we came suddenly into water apparently as white as milk, the appearance was so singular that it was quite alarming; thought we had got into shoal water. We::sounded, but found no bottom with the deep sea line, so we kept on our course. Towards morning we left the white water, as suddenly as we came into it. The caue of this phenomenon has never, yet, been satisfactorily explained to me.
I wish I could give you a better account of Muscat; many years have elapsed since I was there, and the most prominent events, are all you can reasonably expect me to remember. Our stay there was short, and I was only once on shore. There was nothing very pleasant in the appearance of the place, the people had a demisavage appearance. There were, however, to be seen among them, some splendid specimens of human nature. The short time I was on shore, I had an opportunity of seeing a great number of fine looking fellows dressed in the Arabian costume, armed and mounted on Arab steeds of the purest blood. More beautiful horses I have never seen. iOur living while in Muscat was very good; mutton of a superior quality, very good fresh fish and fowls in abundance, some vegetables, plenty of fruit, consisting of dates, raisins, nuts, almonds, grapes and lemons, varios kinds of sweetmeats, in short everything we wanted for the table, including wine of a superior quality. We had but little sickness on board while at Muscat. I was ill a few days, in consequence of getting overheated, while at work in the hold stowing the cargo. The sea air soon recovered me. After a long passage we arrived safe in the Isle of France. Having peen at this pleasant place twice before, I felt quite at home. As we were to remain here only a short time, we did not haul into the harbour. Our Captain had never been here before and as I was acquainted, he took me with him when he went on snore. On landing I found some old acquaintances, very glad to see me, and was treated by them with hospitality and kindness. There were a number of American vessels there; the ship Massachusetts of Boston, Captain Wm. Ingersoll, a townsman of mine, was one. I went on board and was treated very politely. There was a brig there under repairs, likewise commanded by a townsman of mine, John Beach Grew. I was on board this brig for a short time, but did not see the captain. The mate was, likewise, a Cape Ann man, his name I think was Millet. We procured all the supplies we needed, filled up our water, and shipped a man in place of poor Phil, and the following morning weighed anchor, and sailed with a brignt sun and a pleasant breeze, right glad once more to Aes making progress towards our port of destination. We were bound to fies in the Isle of Wight for orders. Our little brig, although a bad sea boat, had thus far performed her duty well; we were now bound into the British channel, in mid winter, heavy loaded. -- Our passage from the Isle of France, until entering the British channel, was attended with nothing out of the common line of passages. We had the usual allowance of calms, head winds and gales, rather more labour at the pump than we had the first part of the voyage; in truth, our vessel was pecoming very leaky. We were, however, fast approaching our port of destination and every hour gave us fresh hope of arriving in safety. While flattering ourselves with these fond hopes, we were called to encounter one of the hardest and most destructive gales that I ever experienced. We were running into the channel with a whole sail breeze from the southwest; the weather hazy, in the afternoon tne breeze increasing. We took in top-gallant sail at 8 in the evening, close reefed the top sails and hauled the main sail, the gale continuing io increase, All sails were furled, except a balance reefed trisail which were now lying to under. At this time the violence of the gale was so great that our vessel was nearly thrown upon her beam ends; she was lying with her lower yard arms in the water, and leaking so badly that we could not free her with both pumps. We were now lying in a very dangerous position, and in the utmost danger of sinking, to rise no more, the sea making a fair breach over us. Our Captain was a man of great courage, and resolution, and as calm in the tempest, as when running gently before the breeze. Something must be done, the trisail was lowered down, the weather goose wing of the foresail loosed, and the helm put hard up, for the purposes of getting before the wind. She would not mind the helm; the piece of a foresail was blown away, and every effort to get before the wind, proved unavailing. The next thing to be done was to cut away the main mast. This our Captain had resolved to do in the last extremity, but he had also resolved not to do it unless compelled by dire necessity, as the loss of our main mast would have made us an unmanageable wreck, upon a lee shore, which we were fast apbproaching. Tis was indeed a time that called for firmness and decision. The sun was now up and the wildness and horror of the scene surpassed anything of the kind I ever witnessed. A sea was now coming on the weather bow, threatening to overwhelm us,-- "Look out, secure your lives, grasp every man a shroud". -- It came all dreadful, took off the jib boom, and swept our decks fore and aft. The wreck of the jib boom was now under the bows, all hands that could be spared from the pumps were called forward, to clear it away, as there was danger from the position it was in of its making a hole through the bows. This it took us some time to do, and while engaged about it, our minds were in some measure diverted from the perilous position we were lying in. We succeeded in clearing the wreck, after doing which, all hands came aft; the pumps had been kept going without cessation, yet we had but little hope of freeing her. At this time the sun broke out bright and clear, and the gale began to abate. The Pumps were worked with renewed vigor and in a short time we found we could keep her free by constantly working both pumps. As the winds subsided, the sea went down, and it was unncessary to make any further attempts to put her before the wind. she righted so as to bring her yard arms out of water, but yet had a very rank heel. Before sunset the gale was quite over. We found, from our vessel not coming upright, that our cargo must be shifted; we had four or five streaks null, and it was out of our power to put our vessel upright; our cargo of coffee was partly stowed in bulk (between the bales). this loose coffee had shifted to the larboard side, and it was impossible to alter it without taking out part of the cargo. We were in a bad plight, but or Captain resolved to make the best of it, and, if possible, avoid the necessity of throwing part of our cargo overboard.
The night that succeeded this terrific gale was moderate and pleasant; we were all nearly exhausted but had but little time for repose, the damages done by the gale were to be repaired, and everything put in order as far as practicable. We passed quite a comfortable night, However, our hearts were overflowing with gratitude to God for his great goodness to us in our moments of extreme peril, and although we were in a crippled state, we were strong in the belief, that we should be guided by the same good Providence to our port in safety. The next morning, the weather continuing fair, we ran in and made the land, and in the afternoon found ours elves in West Bay, near the small port called Lyne, to the westward of the hill of Portland. A boat was now seen coming out of the harbour of Lyne a starting towards us. This was a welcome sight to all of us. In a short time the boat was within speaking distance, when the following questions were asked and answers returned.
“Where are you from"?
Ans. “Muscat".
“Where bound"?
Ans. "Cowes".
“Do you want a pilot".
Ans. "No".
(Pilot) “We thought your vessel appeared to pe in distress, and came to your relief; did not you have your colours in the lee rigging? We thought you had".
"No, you'only saw clothes hanging there to dry".
(Pilot) "Your vessel seems to have a rank heel, I should think your cargo was shifted".
(Capt. ) “Yes, we shifted some of our cargo in the late gale".
(Pilot) It was the hardest gale that has heen known here for a great many years; more than two hundred vessels have been stranded on the Coast of England, it is estimated; a number of steeples were blown down, and other damage done on shore",
(Capt.) “Come under the stern, and we will give you a rope. Perhaps you would like a drop of something to drink".
(Pilot) I thank you, Captain, we should be thankful for a little "refreshment"; we have had a hard pull of it".
(Capt.) "What do you think of the weather, Pilot? Are we going to have another gale?"
(Pilot) "I think we are".
(Capt.) "I am well acquainted in the Channel, yet, I should like to have a pilot, as we are in a crippled state, and my crew have had a hard time of it since we arrived on the coast; what shall I pay you to take me into Cowes "?
(Pilot) "One hundred guineas".
(Capt.) “That is more than I shall ever think of paying".
(Pilot) "Your vessel is in a very dangerous situation, you are now emboyed, and a gale coming on. The port of Lyne is a tide harbour; in case of necessity I might possibly get your vessel in there, but this is a very dangerous bay. Do you see that long beach? Where a great nuaher of vessels have been lost. You can do as you please, captain, put I think you had better take a Pilot". "I shall not give a hundred guineas at any rate", said the Captain.
(Pilot) “Well, good bye I wish you safe in". So after thus bidding us good bye, he cast off and made towards the shore.
(Capt.) “If you will come on board, I will pay you fifty guineas to take me to Cowes and that is the most I will give". After a short consultation, he concluded to accept our captain's offer, and came on board. None but those that have been similarly situated can conceive of the joy we felt when this bargain was concluded, and the Pilot on board. It was now late in the afternoon with every appearance of a stormy night; we were standing towards the Bill of Portland, the wind blowing on shore, and our first object was to get an affing for the night; the wind favored us, we weather the Bill of Portland, and stood it into mid channel. Towards morning we stood in for the Needles Light . Te weather was thick and rainy, and the wind blowing quite a gale. We were running in under close reefed topsails. At daylight we saw the land on the lee bow, which proved to be St. Aldan's head; the gale was increasing, and it became necessary to haul close upon 4 wind to fetch the needles. We were now in a position that rendered it necessary to carry a heavy press of sail; and get into port before night, or lose our vessel and our lives upon a lee shore. Our situation was truly deplorable. We had arank heel of four or five streaks to port, and were forced to carry sail to keep off a lee shore, with our starboard tacks on board, our vessel leaking so that we were obliged to keep both pumps constantly at work; yet, we did carry sail and that right stoutly, the lee rail continually in the water, and many times the leading blocks. In this way we kept on making apparently very slow progress. It was one of the most anxious days I ever passed; the gale was increasing, night approaching, and hardly a ray of Hope left. We were all cold, wet and exhausted with the fatigue of pumping. In this great extremity kind Providence again came to our aid, the winds suddenly changed in our favor, and before it was fairly dark, we ran in througn the needles passage and were soon in smooth water, and running in a fair way for Cowes, where we came to anchor about 7 o'clock in the evening. Can you imagine how thankful we all felt to see tne old Greyhound once more riding safely at anchor, after encountering so many extreme perils? We had not been long at anchor, before a number of boats from the shore came alongside, and we were greatly annoyed with Brokers' clerks, Custom House officers, press gangs, etc., etc. After these intruders left us, we had an opportunity of taking a few hours rest, which you may be assured we much needed. The morning following was pleasant, and at the usual time all hands were called to attend to duty. A circumstance, at this time, took place that it may be well to notice, although it is not a matter of much interest. You will recollect, we shipped a man in the Isle of France, in place of the man we lost in Muscat. This man was an Englishman, and a worthless fellow. His name I nave forgotten. During the whole passage he shammed sickness to avoid working, and was wnat the sailors call a real “old soldier". At the time of the gale, when our vessel appeared to be sinking, this fellow, that had for a long time feigned sickness, seeing his life in danger, took hold of the pump with so much spirit, that we were led to think he had been reserving his strength purposely for the occasion. He was, evidently, as well as any man on board and only feigned sickness to keep clear of work; so, after this demonstration, it was not an easy thing for him to bring on a relapse, and consequently had to do duty like any other man on board, from the time of the gale until our arrival in port. On the morning alluded to, when all hands were called, my gentleman refused to turn out, said he was wet and cold and not able to do duty, and he would be d--d if he would come on deck. “I am an Englishman", said he, “and I will go on board a man of war", At the very moment he uttered these words, the officer of the press gang stepped on deck and heard him. "Where is the man“, said he, "that wants to go on board of a man of war"? "Step up here my good fellow, I have a ship ready for you; come, muster up your things and go in the boat". Now this scamp looked silly enough. He began to haul in his horns, and tried to back out, but it was of no use, go he must, and we were all glad to get clear of him. His chest and bedding were soon put in the boat and a few moments after, we had the pleasure of seeing him seated in the boat and rowed on a man of war. He was an old man of war's man, and from some circumstances, we were led to believe he was one of the mutineers that took possession of the Hermione on the Spanish main. Our Captain went on shore and made arrangements for having the brig repaired; we hauled into West Cowes for that purpose, landed part of our cargo, for the purpose of putting the vessel up right, which having done, we took it on hard again, and restored it. Carpenters and caulkers were employed repairing the brig, and the crew in repairing the rigging and sails. France offering the best market for our cargo, our Captain concluded to go there, as soon as the vessel could be made ready. As the days were short, we made slow progress, and it was nearly a month before all our repairs were finished. During this time we had formed a pretty intimate acquaintance with that nefarious crew called the press gang, not from any desire to form an acquaintance with them, but from their frequent intrusions for the purpose of impressing our men, which they had a great desire todo, and consequently made us frequent visits in hopes of finding some flaw in their protections that may justify their taking them, or to entice them to the Rendezvous, get them drunk, slip into their hands the King's bounty, and thereby enlist them in the service; in the last way they succeeded in taking from us two of our crew, Tom Grey and James Brigham. They went to the Rendezvous, got drunk, were flattered into the belief that they could compel our Captain to pay them the wages that were due them, promised to make petty officers of them, etc., and they, poor simpletons, sold themselves to Johnny Bull. The next morning, Lieutenant Good (yes, that was the name of this rascal that commanded the press gang) with his gang came pulling alongside in great style with Tom and Johnny seated in the stern of the boat, looking to us like two poor culprits, yet, they having already been taught to believe themselves petty officers in his Majesty's service, put on airs of impudent assurance and were disposed to treat us officers of the Greyhound, with great indignaty. Mr. Good, and these two good for nothing fellows, came on board and demanded their clothes and wages. The mate told them ne should not give them their clothes without an order from the Captain and to him he also referred them for their wages. The officer of the gang made a great bluster, said he would have their clothes and wages or he would take the value of them from the vessel, threatened to take the anchors from the bows, etc. Our Captain applied to the American Consul for protection. These fellows had deserted our vessel, and forfeited their wages and effects and he was not disposed to pay them or deliver them their clothes. The Consul assured our Captain that they could not recover their wages, and, notwithstanding the frequent threats of the officers of the press gang, he did not yield. After about a week, during which they with the gang made us daily visits, they were sent on board one of his majesty's floating "hells" lying at Spithead and instead of being made petty officers in all probability, were made swabbers. The Greyhound being now ready for sea, we hauled into the roads, While lying in the roads waiting for a fair wind to sail for France, one evening about sunset, our Captain started from the brig to go on shore in the boat, with four men, to man the oars. When about a third of the way toward the shore, a man of war's boat manned with twelve men at the oars, a cockswain and a Lieutenant, pulled alongside of our boat, witn so much violence as to break one of our oars. Our Captain was taken by surprise, and on turning his head to see who had committed this outrage, was accosted by a young dandy of a Lieutenant (presenting at the same time a pistol at the breast of our unarmed Captain) in the following manner, “Are your men protected, sir?" And without giving our Captain time to reply, demanded a sight to their protections. He told him if he would return with him to the brig, they should show him their protections. This he accordingly did, and by this time it was nearly dark. This Mr. Dandy Officer stepped very pompously on the Greyhound's quarter deck, ordered his twelve armed ruffians to follow him, and after leaning himself against the companionqay, ordered the men to produce their protections. he first man that presented his protection for examination, happened to be the Captain's brother; his name was Elias Elwe11.) He is now living, and has been, for many years, one of the most respectable shipmasters sailing out of the port of Boston. The fellow cast his eye upon the protection, and then turning to our Captain, said “I shall take this man; get your things, sir, and go in the boat".
"What do you mean sir?“ answered our Captain, “take this man? He is my own brother, and has an American protection".
“I don't care, sire, I shall take him". At this moment he presented a pistol at the breast of our unarmed Captain, observing in a very excited manner, "I am sorry to use violence, sir". -- then addressing his armed miscreants said, “take that man into the boat". Elias was quite cool, and merely remarked, that there was no necessity for force; he could go in the boat; it would be folly for an unarmed man to resist; so he went quietly into the boat, where he was followed py this scamp of a Lieutenant, and his gang, without looking at another man's protection. The frigate that this officer belonged to came into the roads that afternoon, and was lying but a short distance fron us. the boat now returned to her. This was one of the most aggravating cases of imprisonment I ever witnessed. We were unarmed, taken by surprise, and in no aspect able to act on the defensive. Our Captain went immediately on shore, and made complaint to the American Consul, and returned with a letter from the Consul to the Captain of the frigate. By the time he reached the frigate it was 8 o'clock in the evening. The order he heard given by the officor to the centinel at the gangway, was to "keep that boat off", “don't let that boat come alongside". Our Captain then hailed the officer of the deck, and requested him to have the goodness to tell the commanding officer that he was from the American Consul at Cowes. The answer he received was "will you have the goodness to tell the American Consul to go to Hell" - Finding he could not be permitted to go on board the frigate, he went on shore resolved to make another attempt, early in the morning. When morning came, the boat was sent on shore for the Captain, and returned with him, and the Consul's clerk, a Scotchman nearly 6 & 1/2 feet high. Our Captain was determined to board the frigate this time or perish in the attempt. The frigate appeared to be preparing to get under way, as soon as it was light, and when our boat arrived alongside, all sail was set on board the frigate and she was just gathering head way. The order, on board the frigate to the centinel, was "keep that boat off, don't let her come alongside, let no one come on board from her!. Our Captain had resolved to place himself on that frigate's quarter deck, and go ahead was the word he had already got alongside. To ascend the ladder was an easy task, but there was a sentinel standing at the top of the ladder, witn a fixed bayonet. No matter, upward and onward, fearlessly he went, put the bayonet aside with his hand, and with one bound stood upon the frigate's quarter deck. The Captain of the frigate met him, and in an imperious manner demanded his business. He handed him the letter from the Consul. He looked at it, and with the greatest indignation, tore it in pieces, saying, "No sir! Elwell shant go - leave my ship sir." "I will, sir, when you have told me, by wnat authority you hold my brother on board your ship; an American citizen with an American protection". "Because, I choose to, sir. Now leave my ship, sir", “I will," answered our Captain, "but you must first listen to a few words I have to say"; then with the greatest coolness, he remarked “here I am, an unarmed man, and you, with a frigate under foot, yourself armed; your officers armed; your quarter deck bristling with bayonets, and yet, sir, I fear you not; perhaps the time may come when we may meet on equal ground - until then farewell." By this time you may be sure this Captain of the frigate had worked himself into a tremendous passion, in which our captain left him and returned on board the Greyhound. The whole account of this affair, I had from the Consul's clerk who accompanied our Captain, and was on the frigate's quarter deck, during the whole interview between our Captain and theCaptain of the frigate, and if my memory serves me, the substance of my relation varies but little from his account. Our Captain returned on board the Greyhound with feelings more easy for you to imagine than for me to describe. His own brother was on board a British man of war, held in worse than bondage and compelled to fight the battles of a nation that no true citizen of the United States, under any circumstances, ought willingly to draw the sword for. Captain Elwell was not a man to dispond; an effort must be made, and that without gta to rescue his brother. The frigate was on her way towards Yarmouth Roads, from thence to sea, perhaps immediately. He went on shore, for the purpose of taking such course as his friends might advise, to obtain an early release of his brother. Captain Elwell was highly esteemed in Cowes by everone that knew him. On the present occasion they all felt great sympathy for him and a proper indignation towards the Captain of the frigate for the rascally outrage; his friends were ready to save him, and did serve him most effectually. A statement of the case was immediately made by the American. Consul, and backed by a letter from the Collector of the port of Cowes, an transmitted, without delay, to the Admiral at Spithead, by a swift barge provided expressly for the purpose. This procured an immediate order from the Admiral to the Captain of the frigate, to deliver up Elias Elwell immediately on receipt of the order. The same swift barge proceeded to Yarmouth Roads, presented the order to the Captain of the frigate, obtained the release without a moment's delay, and prought him on board the "Greyhound" Having been absent in his Majesty's service two days, he was stationed n the fore top and at one of the guns which he was employed in exercising, at the time the order arrived for his release. Many, very many cases of imprisonment of American seamen happened in those days; but the cases of the men impressed, being so promptly given up, on a representation of the case, were very rare; not one in a hundred, and in this case, if the frigate had been gone to sea, the order to release our man could not have been presented; and if the ship had been bound upon a distant station, years might have rolled by, before his discharge could have been procured. The utmost vigilance on the part of our Captain was all that saved his brother; one hour's delay, and he would have been off, compelled to drag out a hated existence in the service of the last power on earth that a true hearted Yankee could ever willingly fight for. Mr. Livingston, bearer of dispatches, secretary of legation, or in some other manner connected with our embassy at the court of St. Clouds, was going passenger with us to France. This circumstance was represented to the Admiral at Spithead, and doubtless had some influence in effecting the prompt release of our man, wnose imprisonment by a British officer was delaying the departure of a messenger of our Government. The next day after the release of our man, the wind being fair, we weighed anchor and sailed for France. At this time, all the principle ports on the Coast of France were blockaded by tne British, they being, at this time, at war with each other. We were consequently compelled to go to one of the small ports. These are what are called made harbours" and only acessible at particular times of the tide, from low to high water, according to the draft of water the vessel may draw that is bound in. We ran over with the wind blowing from the westward, and fell in, in the morning, off a small place called Fecamps. Here we were boarded by a British frigate, our men's protections and ship's papers were examined by the officer that boarded us, and the ports we were forbidden endorsed by him on the brig's register. As we were but a short time from England, we were not very rigidly examined, and were soon permitted to proceed on our Way. Our Captain first thought of going into Fecamp, put from some cause, after running close into the port, altered his mind, and ran for Dieppe, off which place we anchored that evening, in hopes of obtaining a pilot the following morning to take us into port. This was indeed a wild place for a vessel to lie at anchor in, with the wind blowing along shore as it was at this time, and evidently increasing to a gale, with a heavy sea. We rode it out through the night, with both anchors a head, and all our cable out. In the morning we set a signal for a pilot, but no pilot appeared. We set a signal of distress, but no notice waa taken of it on shore; or if it was, no one appeared disposed to come to our relief. We were now pitching bows prit under, expecting every moment to part our cables, night fast approaching, and no pilot in sight. Our situation was a distressing one, and called for all the nerve and energy we had at command to enable us to do the duty required of us. After sunset the wind moderated, and our Captain resolved to weigh our anchors, if practicable, and run in nearer the shore, hoping by this means to succeed in obtaining a pilot. We went to work, and hove up our anchors and just as we got them at the bows, a pilot boat came alongside, from which two pilots came on board. They now took charge, but it not being a proper time of tide to go in, they ran in a short distance, and came to anchor again, with poth anchors ahead. We had not been long at anchor, before it began to blow harder than ever, with a heavy sea. Here, the pilot said, we must lie until six o'clock in the morning, as the tide would not serve before that time. Such a night as this was, riding at anchor, I never experienced before nor since. Every pitch our vessel made carried bowsprint, windlass, and all under water. Great care and labour was necessary to keep our cables from chafeing off in the hause hole. We made preparations to cut one cable, and slip the other, when the time arrived for running in, as heaving up our ahchors was altogether impracticable; buoys were got ready and put upon each cable, to enable us to find our anchors again. We now most anxiously counted the minutes to six o'clock, mentally praying that our cables may not part, nor our anchors drag until the looked for hour arrived to cut, slip and run in. Our cables and anchors did their duty, although the gale continued with increased violence. At length the hour arrived for running in; the fore top mast staysail was hoisted up, the helm put hard a port, the small bower cable cut, and the best bower cable slipped. The brig now veered round, with her head towards the western pier head of the harbour of Dieppe. It was the grey of the morning, the sea beating with its greatest fury upon the black pierhead, giving it, as we approached, a horrified appearance. The pier was crowded with men and women, mostly women, dressed in the costume of the fishermen and fish women, peculiar to this part of the Coast of France, at that time. The dress of the men was short petticoat, trowsers, made of coarse white linen cloth, short brown jackets, woolen caps and wooden shoes or long boots. The women were dressed in short petticoats, red or blue woolen stockings, a kind of jacket of coarse materials, a white cap with flaps hanging down upon the shoulders, and wooden shoes. Taken together, in a group, upon the pierhead, in a violent storm they made rather a frightful appearance. These people had taken their stations there thus early, for the purpose of hauling our vessel into the harbour, which they did in the following manner. When we arrived at tb first pierhead, a small line was thrown from the pier on to our forecastle, and made fast to the end of our hawser; This was stretched up the pier and taken woand a large shieve or wheel, and as many as could, took bold of it and ran down the pier, this turned the brig between the two piers. By this time the hawser came taught, we were out against the eastern pierhead, from which, another line was passed on to the larboard side of our forecastle, another hawser made fast and strung up tne pier as before. Tis brought us fairly between the two piers, and in a fair way to be hauled in, but unfortunately, the water was not deep enough; the sea was very high; our vessel struck the bottom of the sea, made a fair breach over us, rakeing us fore and aft. When the sea lifted us again, the "Fish Women" pulled away like "good fellows" and succeeded in getting us some distance before she struck again. She struck in this way three or four times, but they finally succeeded in hauling us into the basin, where it was perfectly smooth and entirely dry at low water. The men and women, that hauled us in, were paid two or three sous each, or about three cents, our money. I don't know how many there were that had hold of the lines, but should judge from three to five hundred. The sea, when it came over our stern, stove in our cabin windows, filled the cabin with water, damaged all our pread and everything else that was susseptible of damage, wet all our clothing and beds, which caused us much trouble and inconvenience. The water from the cabin found its way into the hold, and did a good deal of damage to the cargo. We were now safe alongside of the pier, the sun was out bright and clear; after escaping from so many perils, we were not so ungrateful as to let trifles disturb our happiness. It is true, we were all wet, with no ary clothes to put on; the regulations of the port made it necessary for us to extinguish our fire, consequently, there was no cooking to be done, so the whole of this day we were compelled to fare hard and work hard. The vessel having great deal of water in her, it took us some hours to pump it out. Our Captain went on shore and made the necessary arrangements for providing meals on shore for all of us at a house very near the brig, so the same evening we went there, and were regaled with a substantial supper, after which we all returned on board and obtained a good night's rest, which we stood greatly in need of. The following morning was pleasant. We breakfasted where we supped the night before, were well treated, and consequencely satisfied to continue taking our meals at this place during our stay in Dieppe. Our Captain went to Paris the next day after our arrival toc dispose of our cargo. Dieppe being a small fishing place and no market for a cargo of coffee, he was absent several days, effected a sale of the cargo, and returned on board and gave the necessary orders for discharging cargo. Our hatches were now opened and we commenced unloading. We found a great deal of cargo damaged on the larboard side, notwithstanding which the whole cargo sold at an immense profit. The coffee tha that cost twelve cents per pound sold for forty cents per pound; the other articles sold a great profit, but not equal to the coffee. I had an adventure on board that sold at an immense profit; the proceeds of it I invested through the aid of a Broker recommended to me by Captain Elwell, by the name of "Touchard", and was by him most completely jewed. It was a great while ago, but I could never forget the name of thie Frenchman, it being so readily associated with too hard was doubtless one cause of my remembering it. I was taught a good lesson, but at too great a cost.
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